Last Updated on October 24, 2023 by Home in the World
There is little I can write about this place that hasn’t already been written; it is a wonder of the world and no doubt figures high on most travellers’ bucket lists already. Discovered in 1911 by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham, the 15th-century Inca citadel is famed for its dramatic location, often enveloped in cloud, on a ridge that drops away abruptly towards the rushing Urubamba River below, set against the iconic backdrop of the imposing Huayna Picchu mountain.
Unless you’re hiking the Inca trail, getting there from Cusco for the day involves taking an early-morning (around 6.45am) train ride from Poroy station, about half an hour out of Cusco. The station is pictured below.
There are various options of trains you can take from there, including the luxury Belmond Hiram Bingham and the Vistadome, both operated by PeruRail. We had opted for the latter (our entire package had been arranged through our Cusco hotel) and found it to be more than adequate. It was clean and comfortable, and had a glass roof to maximise views of the lush, dramatic scenery you pass through on the approx. 3-hour ride to the town of Aguas Calientes. You may even get some onboard entertainment, as we did.
Aguas Calientes as a town is not much to write home about. It is a tourist trap, and you are forced to walk through a labyrinthine handicrafts market to get from the train to the buses waiting to transport you to Machu Picchu. Some people choose to stay overnight in Aguas Calientes, and there are several hotels available. We did not. Below is a picture of the town.
The final leg of the journey involves taking a shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu (approx 30-40 minutes). If you really want to splurge, you can stay at the ultra luxurious Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, which is located right at the entrance of Machu Picchu, thereby avoiding this very long day of travelling – but you will have to be willing to fork out for it!
Having FINALLY reached Machu Picchu itself after what seemed like an eternity, we met up with our guide (who had been organised by the hotel as part of our package) and I was at last able to take in the iconic view I had drooled over for so many years while browsing travel brochures and online photos. Despite the crowds, I was struck by how quiet it was overall. There was the low hum of people talking and admiring, of course, but overriding this was a sense of peace, tranquility and indeed power emanating from this unique place. As this was over a decade ago, however, I am sure the crowds (in non-pandemic times!) have increased significantly since then.
A small note about practicalities when visiting the site: Despite it being quite warm, we wore thick pants and long-sleeved clothing on the recommendation of other guests staying at our hotel who had been bitten very badly by the many sandflies that inhabit Machu Picchu. I’m not sure if they are seasonal or not, but I still managed to get one bite through my thick clothing! Also, as with Cusco itself, ensure sun protection due to the strong UV, and be aware that some (not all) parts of the site are quite steep or involve walking down uneven stone steps (a lady actually broke her leg while we were there, though I think she was quite unlucky).
No need for more rambling from me; just enjoy some of the other photos I took up there, which include the amazing Inca stonework, the original Inca drainage channel that still runs with water today, the wild Urubamba River far below, and of course the amusingly cute llamas (or are they alpacas? I never know..). Click a photo to enlarge it.
Trip facts
When I visited: This trip was done as a day excursion during my visit to Cusco in mid-October 2009, for which there is a separate blog post here.
Weather: I visited during the second week of October, which is the very start of the rainy season. Cusco’s temperatures do not vary drastically; it’s more about the wet and dry seasons here. While we had a few overcast days where the sky looked pretty threatening (including here at Machu Picchu), we rarely actually had any rain, especially during the day. Temperatures were around 23°C (73°F). Overall I found it a great time to visit; not peak tourist time but still very pleasant. Be sure to bring sun protection too, since the high altitude means the UV is stronger and you are more likely to get sunburnt.
Where I stayed: Torre Dorada in Cusco