Last Updated on January 27, 2026 by Home in the World
It was an arid sprawl of sand and swirling dust that unfolded beneath me as I pressed my face to the plane window. As an Australian, I was not totally unfamiliar with the sight of dramatic, dry landscapes while coming in to land.
But this was the Middle East – a region of undisputed complexity but also amazing richness and mystique (at least for Westerners). Some would even say the cradle of civilisation, and the birthplace of major religions. Apart from a trip to Dubai way back in 2005, I had not been to this part of the world before – and whether or not Dubai even classifies as an authentic Middle Eastern experience is itself debatable.
Touchdown in Jordan
I got my first taste of Jordanian warmth and friendliness before I had even set foot on the country’s soil. A young lady in a hijab, travelling alone with her young son, had also been on our flight from Australia. On the short connecting flight from Doha to Amman, she happened to be sitting in front of us, and we struck up a conversation when two-year-old Abdul started playing peekaboo through the gap in the aircraft seats. She and her husband lived in a rural town outside Perth, and she was taking her son back to visit her family in Jordan while her husband (also Jordanian) stayed back in Australia managing their business.
She was so pleased that we were coming to visit her country, and said that if our trip took us to Amman, we would be welcome to stay with her and her mother. Sadly, Amman would end up being nothing more than a transit stop for us, so we never got to take her up on her offer, but it was a great and welcoming encounter nonetheless.
Once through customs at Amman’s shiny modern airport (to save hassles with visa formalities on arrival, I highly recommend getting the Jordan Pass before you go – it is an initiative run by the Jordanian government, and also covers entry into various sites like Petra), we were whisked away to our hotel transfer, which would take us one hour south to the lowest point on earth – the Dead Sea.
The Dead Sea
The drive from Amman airport south towards the Dead Sea was interesting enough in itself. We passed through many small villages where buildings looked like little more than shells, and the dryness and dustiness was almost palpable. Road signs pointed the way to the Iraqi and Syrian border (a reminder of how close we were to some of the world’s most intense flashpoints), and I even saw a car with a sticker of Saddam Hussein on it. Welcome to the Middle East indeed!
The piles of sand and rock lining the road grew as we descended further and further below sea level – cue the ear popping. Suddenly, amidst all the aridity and rubble, the glistening salty waters of the Dead Sea, surface elevation -430 m (-1410 ft), came into view, and beyond them the hazy hills of Israel’s West Bank.
Upon first entering the Dead Sea tourist region, cars are stopped at a security checkpoint, and upon arriving at our hotel (one of several resorts sitting side by side on the sea’s shores), the car was inspected by staff before entering the gates, and we too had to walk through a metal detector before stepping into the hotel. It sounds intense but it doesn’t seem like it at all when you’re actually there.
Indeed I am only mentioning this because some people may be wondering how safe it is to visit Jordan, given its location, various travel warnings, and the fact that it has had a hotel bombing in the past – I know it certainly crossed my mind before travelling there.
Our guide told us that it was, in fact, the co-ordinated bombings at three hotels in Amman in 2005 that prompted the immediate beef-up of security at hotels and tourist sites that remains in place today, and we certainly felt very safe at all times and didn’t give it a second thought.
The Dead Sea itself is a sight to behold, and I’m so glad we chose to use it as our base for our stay in Jordan. We had initially planned to stay in Amman, but a friend who had previously worked at hotels both in the capital and the Dead Sea recommended we stay out by the sea instead. The landscape is so much more unique than what we would have experienced staying in an urban centre like Amman.
The rocky brown hills contrast stunningly with the blue waters and open skies – a vast and soothingly monotonous tableau broken only by the oases that are the handful of seafront resorts, with their Babylonian style buildings, glistening infinity pools and lush palm trees swaying gently in the warm breeze.
Step out of their gates, however, and you are back in the dusty, rugged expanses of this lunar-like setting, where semi-rural townships and shells of buildings lie scattered along the one main road that passes through here – the Jordan Valley Highway . It’s a tranquil and surreal place.
With a salt content of 33.7%, the Dead Sea is technically impossible to sink in. There is no dearth of photos of people photographed reading newspapers and sipping cocktails while floating in it. Because floating is exactly what you have to do; no swimming allowed. Splashing around and putting your face anywhere near the water are big no-nos, unless you like the idea of burning, stinging eyes.
For a similar reason, it is highly recommend to cover any open cuts you have before stepping in, and likewise to refrain from shaving for 24-48 hours beforehand – rubbing salt into wounds and all that. I also wore flip-flops to walk in, as I had heard about people cutting their feet on the sharp salt deposits on the sea floor – and as I have just said, you don’t want any open cuts in water that is 8.6 times saltier than the ocean.
Feeling the roughness and unevenness underfoot even when wearing the flip-flops vindicated my decision to do so. Once at about waist-deep, simply lean back, allow your feet to lift off the ground, and enjoy the highly unique sensation of being in this natural flotation tank. I was told that some people have relaxed so much in there, they have fallen asleep and floated across into Israel, prompting the border force to have to push them back onto the Jordanian side of the sea!
I went at sunset, which I would highly recommend, as the hot sun is then not beating down on your face as you lie on your back. It was a stunning time of the day for such a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Your skin feels amazingly smooth when you step out, and if you wish, you can put on some of the Dead Sea mud to help exfoliate further. Let it dry, then head back into the sea to wash it off.
Most of the resorts have their own private beach area to access the sea, with deck chairs, clean towels, showers, and pails of the mineral-rich mud. Floating in the Dead Sea was certainly a bucket-list experience I will never forget, and considering the swift rate at which it is drying up (1.2 m/4 ft per year – largely a result of water diversions and poor water/irrigation policies), it’s worth trying to get there sooner rather than later.
More shots of the Dead Sea at sunset:
Petra
Sunset floating and glowing skin are all well and good, but if there’s one thing the vast majority of tourists come to Jordan for, it’s to see the country’s most famous archaeological site, the ‘rose-red city half as old as time’ – otherwise known as Petra. One of the eight wonders of the man-made world, it is located about a 3-hour drive south of the Dead Sea. We did it as a long daytrip, though there are also a number of hotels right at the site for those wanting to stay overnight. If you’ve got a Jordan Pass (which I recommended earlier), this grants you entry.
The drive there and back in itself is fascinating, and during the cumulative six hours spent in the car, we learned a lot about Jordan and its people from our local guide, who had lived his whole life in the region.
The landscapes also constantly changed – the rocky slopes along the Dead Sea coast eventually gave way to flat, dusty, sparsely settled semi-desert inland along the Kings Highway, before the mountainous rocky terrain returned for the final push, forcing our car to negotiate steep climbs and winding hairpins (not to mention a few goats and camels).
And suddenly, in this otherworldly setting that seemed like a mix between Mars (it’s no surprise films such as The Martian and Star Wars have been filmed here), a mine site, and a biblical epic, a township emerged, as we followed the aptly named Tourism Street to the gates of the Petra Visitor Centre.
Some of the sights and scenes on the roads to and from Petra:
The Visitor Centre has a small museum, and the forecourt has several souvenir stalls and some (very ordinary) toilets, and then you’re off down the rocky, dusty road known as the Siq, which starts out in the open air – surrounded by dramatic rock formations, caves and carvings – before narrowing to a gorge-like path that carves its way between sheer walls of pink, marbled rock. In some places, not even the beating sun can make its way in.
Be prepared to share it with hustling Bedouins, who ferry tourists back and forth in their donkey-drawn ‘taxis’. They move at pretty high speed; no sooner do you hear the echoes of clopping hooves, and they are racing right past you.
They may be an option for those not wanting to walk the 45 minutes through the (relatively flat) Siq, but I have heard they are also very bumpy – and I was not totally convinced there wasn’t some level of animal cruelty going on, given the donkeys’ appearance. So I walked it.
More Siqscapes:
And just when you think it’s all a hoax because you’ve been walking for ages (possibly in searing heat) and every twist has simply led to yet another turn through the rugged canyon of rose-coloured rock, you get a sense the end is near; the hum of crowds grows louder, and you almost feel there should be some sort of dramatic music playing in the background (in my head there kind of was) – the build-up to a climactic movie scene.
And then you catch a glimpse of it. The blushing showpiece of the ancient city of Petra reveals herself coyly, bit by bit, a few intricately carved columns at a time, luring travellers out of the winding gorge towards her, only unveiling herself in all her glory when they finally emerge from the Siq.
There, in a sandy clearing surrounded on all sides by sheer walls of rose-red rock, stands the majestic Treasury. A façade that wouldn’t look out of place in Rome carved straight into the marble rock face.
The smell of camel poo hangs in the air, and there are touristy souvenir stalls, kohl-eyed Bedouin touts, and (as was the case when I was there) a radio blaring out Yeah! by Usher, but it all fades into oblivion as you marvel at this literal hidden gem, which was only properly discovered by the Western world in 1812. And while there were certainly crowds, it actually wasn’t as packed as I expected.
Below are some more photos and a short video I took of the Siq and the Treasury:
But while the Treasury is synonymous with this wonder of the world, the ancient city of Petra – the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom, dating back to around 300 BC – actually sprawls for 264 sq km (100 sq miles), and is home to a number of other tombs and temples all similarly hewn into the pink rock.
If you have the time and energy, you can head high into the hills and climb the 850 steps to the Monastery. But if not, just beyond the Treasury you can still admire structures such as the Nabataean Theatre, the Royal Tombs and the Great Temple as you wend your away along the dusty but aptly named Street of Façades.
This is mysterious Arabia on a vast scale, and it’s worth spending at least a few hours soaking it all up. The path is dotted with souvenir stalls, the odd small food stand or café, and the occasional (pretty dirty) toilet.
Much of it is rather flat but a bit rocky, so be sure to wear solid walking shoes. There is also very little shade (except in the narrow parts of the Siq and around the Treasury), so it is advisable to be prepared with sun protection, water, and wear loose fitting clothing – especially when travelling during the warmer months of May-October.
Some more scenes from Petra (click to enlarge):
After racking up over 20,000 steps and trudging back up the Siq (there is indeed a gradual slope upwards on the way back), we made it back to our car – hot and tired but buzzing from the bucket-list experience. As we drove back in the light of the setting sun, we noticed our driver getting repeatedly stopped by random strangers who were handing out small packs of food. Even the police were waving him over.
We already knew we were visiting this country during the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset (though I learned that special dispensation was given to people who were ill, elderly, pregnant, menstruating, and who had travelled long distances).
And our driver explained that, during this month, people start handing out snacks (primarily dates) about an hour before sunset as a way of easing them into their iftar (the meal families have at sunset to break their fast). The sense of community, friendliness and sharing between total strangers was really touching and inspiring to see.
Jerash
Our final Jordanian adventure would be to the northern city of Jerash, whose Greco-Roman ruins date back to the time before Christ. They are in fact among the best preserved Roman ruins outside of Italy. After the 1.5-hour drive from the Dead Sea, and having navigated our way through the bustling hive of undercover markets near the entrance, we flashed our Jordan Passes and stepped through the giant stone portal that is Hadrian’s Arch.
The site formerly known as Gerasa is very large and rather exposed – so if you visit on a hot day (like we did), be sure to bring sun protection and water. It is mostly flat, but if you want to get some elevated views, be prepared to scramble up a few slopes and over the odd stone block. You’ll also find the odd tout lurking around offering to be a guide or take photos for you in return for tips.
We spent several hours there, though unfortunately did not get to see the whole site as it was just too hot. The scale of the complex is incredible; looking out over the Oval Plaza and Cardo Maximus, the people look like small specks.
Beyond lies the modern city of Jerash – a motley cluster of pale-coloured multi-storey buildings scattered over the undulating terrain, and it was surreal to hear the Muslim call to prayer from a nearby minaret while standing amongst ancient Roman ruins. A peaceful fusion of cultures and religions that continues to be reflected in Jordanian society to this day.
After soaking up the ancient surrounds (plus a fair bit of sun) and buying far too much stuff at the souvenir market, it was time to head back. Jerash is an easy half-day trip from the Dead Sea, and is often combined with a stop in Amman, which is only about 50 minutes away.
We thought about doing that, but by the late afternoon, the roads were already approaching gridlock, and our driver said we would probably only end up seeing more of the traffic jams than anything else. So we bypassed it and took in some of the surrounding scenery instead. Our driver also stopped at a corner shop on the outskirts of Jerash and got us to taste some local spices and goat’s cheese.
Religion in Jordan
We owe our driver, Nimer, so much. Our many hours in the car with him on our Petra and Jerash trips taught us so much about the Jordanian people, politics and society, as well as his religion, Islam. Not to mention playing some traditional Jordanian disco music for me! He has been in the driving business for a long time, taught himself English, and is a warm, knowledgeable and skilled person.
Unfortunately he was unavailable to take us out to the airport on our last day, but the driver who did (and whose name I forget) was an equally learned and interesting man. He was a devout Roman Catholic, which may be surprising to some.
But in fact Jordan, while approximately 93% Muslim, is also home to one of the world’s oldest Christian communities. John the Baptist’s settlement at Bethany Beyond the Jordan, where Jesus was said to have been baptised, is indeed located only a short drive from the Dead Sea.
This peaceful coexistence of religions (the Jordanian Constitution provides for freedom of religion in accordance with the kingdom’s customs) is what distinguishes Jordan from some of its other Middle Eastern neighbours and has led it to be considered one of the more progressive countries in the region.
It is not mandatory for women to wear hijabs, and while I still wouldn’t recommend wearing exceptionally revealing clothing, the attitudes here are not as strict as in many other Islamic countries.
I was there during Ramadan, when things are a little more conservative, and I still saw tourists at Petra in singlets and short shorts. And don’t let Ramadan put you off either.
Its dates vary every year, but even if you do happen to be here during that holy month, hotels still serve food and alcohol during daylight hours. I believe some smaller restaurants in cities like Amman do not, but we did not eat outside of the Dead Sea resort (there was nowhere else to go out there).
Final thoughts on visiting Jordan
Jordan is an ancient, holy land of lost cities, epic scenery and incredibly warm people. It offers Middle Eastern mystique and heritage while also demonstrating ongoing efforts to modernise and embrace certain elements of Western civilisation (its king, Abdullah II, is actually half British).
There is poverty – we drove through a number of poor villages -, there is ongoing drought, and capacities for taking in refugees from nearby Syria have been all but maxed out. In short, this is a country that still has its fair share of problems in a very complex part of the world.
And it greatly appreciates international visitors, whom it repays with its jaw-dropping natural and man-made wonders and well-geared-up tourism industry. So if you’re looking for an authentic Middle Eastern experience where you can feel inspired, invigorated, and in safe hands, you’d do well to add the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan to your bucket list.
** This post, like everything else on this website, has been written entirely by me. No ChatGPT or any other AI tool has been used. It takes longer to create, but I value 100% human-generated content and I hope you do too! **
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