Last Updated on January 24, 2026 by Home in the World
This is an older, narrative-style post on how I spent 4 days in Rome. I hope it can still be of use in helping you get an idea of how you can build your own itinerary when visiting the Eternal City.
Arrival and general impressions of Rome
It’s fair to say my 4 days in Rome didn’t get off to the greatest of starts. The night before, in London, I had started to develop a very sore throat, which progressively morphed into a dribbling nose on the flight to Rome the next day. By the time I got to the hotel that evening, I was a snotty, sneezing, sniffling mess, clutching a bundle of overused tissues to my Rudolf-the-Reindeer nose.
My wretched state was further compounded by me then getting stressed because I thought there was something strange with the water coming out of the tap at the hotel. It looked to be a very odd colour and not clear at all – turns out it was apparently just the pressure that was making it very bubbly. In any case, late at night in unfamiliar surrounds with a head full of cold, it was not my finest of moments.
The next morning I didn’t feel a heck of a lot better, but time was of the essence, the sun was shining, and there was a world wonder just a short walk down the road, so it was off to see the famed Colosseum.
This was technically not my first time in Italy, though my only other visit had been in the far north, driving through the Dolomites as part of an alpine coach tour of Germany, Austria & Switzerland back in 1998. We had spent less than a day in the country – enough time only to enjoy a quick gelato in the town of Stresa on Lake Maggiore. I was yet to experience a big Italian city, but I was now finally in the mightiest of them all. And boy, could you feel it.
Walking around Rome is like wandering around a vast open-air museum. In its main down town area, there seem to be picturesque ruins or magnificent, imposing buildings wherever you look. It’s honestly quite mind-blowing. You are certainly left in no doubt that this metropolis was once the centre of one of the largest and most powerful empires the world has ever seen.
Which makes it all the more amusing to see locals speeding along the cobbled streets past these spectacular sites in their little Fiats or scooters without giving them so much as a glance. They see them all the time, of course. Much like a Parisian commuting to work past the Eiffel Tower every day. But to an uninitiated tourist like me, it was simply amazing.
My hotel was right by the Roman Forum, which is literally just down the road from the Colosseum, so I followed the wide, cobbled Via dei Fori Imperiali (which appeared to only permit limited traffic, as it was very quiet and largely pedestrianised) all the way along, repeatedly gaping in awe at my historic surroundings.
The Colosseum
But despite feeling like you’ve been transported back to the days of an ancient empire, you are promptly yanked back to reality when you reach the Colosseum. The areas near its entrance were, as expected, filled with congregating tourists, South Asian vendors flogging selfie sticks, and Northern European backpackers selling guided tours of the site.
In the end, we arranged a tour with an Iranian man (curiously, there seemed to be a lot of Iranians working in Rome’s tourism/hospitality industry), who ended up being very knowledgeable and helping organise tickets, before then leaving us to our own devices to explore the site independently.
Though the Colosseum is a tourist magnet, the sheer size of this ‘Flavian Amphitheatre’ (three storeys, originally seating 50,000), coupled with the fact it was not peak season, meant it didn’t feel totally overcrowded, and I was still able to get a few photos without too much human interference!
It certainly was an impressive sight, especially the array of ruined masonry walls on its floor (which I had expected to just be flat sand). I tried to imagine what it would have been like back in AD 80 as a cauldron of raucous spectators cheering on the gladiators below.
Roman Forum
After a few hours at the Colosseum, and still nursing a dribbling nose, I headed up the neighbouring Via Sacra (the main street of ancient Rome), past the Arch of Titus, and through the Roman Forum – the excavated heart of the Roman Empire. And this took the open-air museum vibe to a whole new level.
The mini valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills is dotted with incredible religious sites and crumbling ruins. I don’t recall anyone re-scanning our tickets to enter the site, but it is apparently included in your Colosseum ticket. It’s a sprawling complex that borders on labyrinthine, and you could easily spend hours in it.
Emerging at the other end back onto the aptly named Via dei Fori Imperiali you find yourself facing yet more ruins, this time Trajan’s Forum – the last of the imperial fora to be built in ancient Rome. To think these imposing sites were all situated within walking distance of one another in the centre of a bustling metropolis never ceased to amaze me.
Piazza Navona and Trevi Fountain
After a quick siesta back at the hotel, the flu meds finally seemed to have kicked in and I felt a bit more energised to explore more. I actually found the touristy areas of Rome to be very walkable. Despite never having been to the city before, and the fact that it was starting to get a bit dark, I had no trouble navigating my way to the Piazza Navona and Trevi Fountain using the trusty paper map supplied to me by the hotel.
Apart from the Vatican (which I would take a taxi to visit the next day), I walked to all the sights. The blocks are small, and you see so much more. And if you do take the odd wrong turn in the sometimes labyrinthine network of small streets and laneways in the old town, it’s not long before you emerge onto some other grand piazza and are able to regain your bearings.
The Vatican and St Peter’s Square
The next day, my cold now thankfully easing, it was time to head to what is perhaps Rome’s most famous landmark, the Vatican. The independent city-state, known as the Holy See, is the world’s smallest country, and is home to the Pope. The hotel organised entry tickets for us (which worked very well, and I would particularly recommend doing that if visiting in the peak summer months), as well as a taxi to the site, since it was a bit further away than the other attractions.
I was hoping to perhaps get a new country stamp in my passport upon entering Vatican City, but no such luck. What I do recall very vividly was the fact that I was accosted by more street salesmen as soon I stepped out of the taxi into St Peter’s Square. No, I do not want to buy a selfie-stick, grazie. As with the Colosseum, these sorts of touristy gimmicks are sadly to be expected at places like this.
I had seen St Peter’s Basilica, with the vast St Peter’s Square sprawling out in front of it, many times before on television, but it was amazing to actually set foot there, surrounded on all sides by grand columns, intricate statues, and impressive fountains. And at the centre of the square stood the 25.5-m-tall (84 ft) Egyptian obelisk.
It was like stepping into a history book. I don’t consider myself to be a religious person, but it’s still hard not to be wowed by the scale of the site, and I can only imagine what it must be like when it is filled with 80,000 people for the Papal Audience.
As it is, rows of seats had been set up there at the time of my visit. While you don’t need a ticket to enter, be prepared to stand in line for a while. It wasn’t even a busy time and we queued up for at least 45 minutes – the line snaked right around the square’s perimeter.
There are, of course, hustlers loitering around offering to get you to the head of the queue, but we did not take them up on this, and I cannot verify how legitimate they were. After all, it’s not a bad setting to wait around in for a while!
It was then onto the Vatican Museums, which also required a bit of waiting around for the doors to open. In terms of gallery space, these museums are the fifth largest art-museum complex in the world, and house a myriad papal art treasures in a glitteringly ornate maze of halls, many of whose walls are lined with impressive tapestries and busts, and whose domed ceilings have to be seen to be believed. I don’t think there was a single square centimetre that wasn’t covered in some sort of elaborate gold detailing or rich fresco.
You basically spend the whole time with your neck craned up, trying to take it all in. Along with everyone else. Because even in off-peak season, these halls still swarm with tourists, and in some cases you are just kind of pushed along with the surge of the crowd.
It all culminates, of course, in the famed Sistine Chapel, named after Pope Sixtus IV, and painted by Michelangelo during the early 16th century. This is where you really noticed the crowds; it was absolutely packed when I was in there, which does detract a little from what you’re trying to admire. I was just thankful it wasn’t a boiling hot day in the middle of summer, because I think that would have been unbearable.
My dad, who visited in July 1972, has repeatedly told me how impossibly stifling it was in there at the time – I trust they have installed air-conditioning since then. You are not allowed to take photographs in the chapel (though I saw several people openly flouting this rule), and while it certainly is impressive, if I’m honest, I actually preferred some of the other hallways a bit more.
Stepping out of Vatican City, we were back in Italy again (who knew we had even left?!), and after a full-on day of art and Christian history, it was time to head back to the hotel. The end of day 2 marked the halfway point of my 4 days in Rome, and I think it’s a good time to change things up a bit and talk about food for a moment.
Enjoying the food
I’m not what you’d call a massive foodie; I appreciate food but am also pretty discerning and health-conscious when it comes to dining, including when travelling. But Italian happens to be one of my favourite cuisines, and Rome did not disappoint.
There was a rustic little restaurant called Ristorante Mario’s (I wish it had a website, but sadly it does not seem to) right next-door to our hotel, and on the first night, when I felt rotten, tired and hungry, it just seemed like the easiest option, since the hotel did not offer room service, and it was raining. We decided to sit in the enclosed outdoor area, but after a while, some of the other local Italian patrons started puffing out smoke.
In Australia, we’re fortunate in that we have pretty strict smoking laws in dining areas, including al fresco. But this was Europe, and specifically Italy, where no such rules existed (at least not in 2015).
The smoky environment in the small enclosed area was unbearable, exacerbated by the fact that I had a streaming nose anyway, and the owners (Mario and Angela) were very kind and understanding and moved us inside. They intimated that they, too, did not like the smoke, but could not do anything about it.
In any case, the food was wonderful, and we ended up eating there every single night of our stay. By the end, the hosts knew exactly what we liked, gave us lots of little complimentary tidbits, and generally made our dining experience wonderful.
Despite their limited English, and my even more limited Italian, we developed a great bond, and they even asked me to send them a postcard from Australia when I got home, which I did, trying my best to write in pidgin Italian. They (and their food) were truly wonderful, and I would definitely recommend their restaurant.
Some of the yummy food we had during our 5 dinners there:
General exploring
Day 3 was again spent exploring more of the sights on the eastern side of the Tiber River. As was the case on the first day, half the fun was just getting semi-lost among the winding streets and soaking up the atmosphere.
It sounds clichéd but virtually everywhere you turn in Rome, there seems to be another great photo opportunity – the warm yellows, peaches and oranges of the buildings, the cobbled streets, the casual sophistication of European al-fresco dining, the cascades of ivy clinging to walls and Juliet balconies.. and what better way to admire all these than while enjoying a delicious Italian gelato?
When in Rome, after all. As previously mentioned, I do not eat dairy products, so I wasn’t holding out much hope of being able to experience this. Indeed I walked past a number of cute-looking gelaterias which sadly did not cater to my requirement.
But finally, on a corner just near Piazza Navona, I came across a place called Grom (I later learned it was a gelateria chain), which did amazing dairy-free chocolate gelatos. It was DELICIOUS! I am always very grateful to places that are able to accommodate people with various dietary requirements, because, though they might want to, not everyone can eat everything. So I was able to get my Italian gelato experience after all.
Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo, Pantheon
Among the more famous sights I saw on this day were the Spanish Steps (which were closed for renovation, and thus looked sadly stark and bare compared to pictures I had seen of them decorated with pretty flower pots).
Nevertheless, Piazza di Spagna at their base is a large, vibrant square lined with yellow and orange-coloured buildings housing high-end fashion brands (think Versace, Chanel, etc.), and dotted with tall palm trees and an eclectic array of street artists. It did indeed remind me quite a bit of some squares I had visited in Spain in the past.
I also visited the Piazza del Popolo, which was about 7 blocks north of the Piazza di Spagna. It is a large urban square (actually more circular in shape) with an Egyptian obelisk at its centre (similar to St Peter’s Square), and, as with so many places in Rome, is maintained under the watchful eye of several elaborately carved statues.
At its western end is a fountain of Neptune, complete with Triton, and at its eastern end is the ‘Fountain of Rome between the Tiber and the Aniene’, behind which a staircase leads up to Pincian Hill.
Three main, narrow roads radiate southward out of Piazza del Popolo: Via del Babuino, Via del Corso, and Via di Ripetta. All three are lined with shops, hotels and eateries. To get to the square, I had taken Via del Corso, but I left via Via di Ripetta, which leads all the way down (approx. a half-hour walk – the last few parts involve meandering through side streets) to the Pantheon. Once a Roman temple (built around AD 125) and now a church, it is distinguished by the iconic rotunda structure behind its columned portico.
At the top of the rotunda is an oculus, which lets a funnel of natural light in, giving the interior an ethereal feel. Painter Raphael, among others, is buried here. The Pantheon is free to enter and, when I visited, there was no queue to get in.
In its forecourt, Piazza della Rotonda, stands the Fontana del Pantheon, topped with – you guessed it – another Egyptian obelisk. In ancient Rome, the popes considered obelisks to be a symbol of power, and the city has a total of eight that had been brought from Egypt, and five that were carved in Rome itself.
Victor Emmanuel monument
Wending our way back to the hotel, we passed by one of Rome’s most striking monuments – and my favourite building in the entire city.
Standing tall and proud like a giant tiered wedding cake at the southern end of Piazza Venezia (which happens to be a major traffic junction/roundabout) is the white marble Victor Emmanuel monument, also known as Altare della Patria (‘Altar of the Fatherland’). Erected in honour of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy, it features a tomb of an unknown soldier, and an eternal flame.
Every time I walked past this monument (which was several times), I could not help but be struck by its sheer size. It is colossal; 135 m (443 ft) wide and 70 m (230 ft) high, with sweeping staircases and majestic columns. Front and centre is a bronze equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel II, and at its top are two statues of goddess Victoria riding a quadriga. The overall sight is as impressive as it is intimidating.
In any case, it is definitely worth the climb up to the panoramic terraces (even if just to the first viewpoint), because the vistas over the rooftops and domes of Rome are breathtaking. There is a lift to take you up higher (for a small fee), but the line was so long and the lift so small, that it was going to be a long wait, so I didn’t bother going any further.
Trastevere
On our final afternoon of our 4 days in Rome, we decided to head to the western side of the Tiber River to the bohemian Trastevere district. At one point crossing a bridge over the river, it began to drizzle, and umbrella-sellers scuttled out of absolutely nowhere. We didn’t need one, but it was still interesting to see that even the rain-protection niche of the market had been amply covered.
Known for its funky, eclectic vibe, Trastevere itself is packed full of trattorias, arts & crafts shops, and rustic residential laneways. If I’m honest, I was perhaps a tiny bit let down by it, as I had quite high expectations. Don’t get me wrong; it was a perfectly decent area to wander around for a few hours, but it wasn’t my favourite part of the city. I found it a little overrated.
Final thoughts on my 4 days in Rome
Having visited many of Europe’s major cities over the years, Rome had somehow eluded me for some time, and as someone who has quite an interest in ancient history, it was so wonderful to finally make it to this captivating metropolis. Magnificent and photogenic, with a dash of typical Italian chaos and grit, and a flourish of fashion and fast cars, Rome did not disappoint. Four full days was a perfect amount of time to spend there without having to rush.
For such a large city, I found it to be remarkably clean (at least its main tourist areas), and visiting out of main season meant it wasn’t overbearingly crowded or hot. The people were, as expected, warm and hospitable, and the food was amazing. A city that has played such a pivotal role in the annals of history, it still retains an unmistakable power and allure. A must-see on any European or Italian itinerary. Grazie mille, Roma.
** This post, like everything else on this website, has been written entirely by me. No ChatGPT or any other AI tool has been used. It takes longer to create, but I value 100% human-generated content and I hope you do too! **
Trip facts
When I visited: October 2015
Weather: In my experience, many large (old) European cities are not that well geared up for excessively hot weather, and things can sometimes get pretty uncomfortable. I would definitely recommend September/October as a great time of year to visit Italy.
Where I stayed: Nerva Boutique Hotel
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