Home in the World

Last Updated on May 7, 2024 by Home in the World

What is the first thing you think of when someone says the word ‘Egypt’ or ‘Cairo’? If it’s the pyramids, you certainly wouldn’t be alone (yes, the pyramids are technically in Giza, but that’s still greater Cairo). After all, they are the only remaining ancient wonder of the world, built 4500 years ago to a degree of nearly 100% precision; iconic triangular structures that are instantly recognisable and have inspired countless architects.

If you do one thing in Cairo, it obviously has to be the pyramids, and I will be writing a separate blog post on my personal experience there in due course. BUT, if you have more time after ticking the pyramids off your bucket list, here are a few other things I saw, and recommend, in the gritty, chaotic yet endearing megapolis that is Al-Qahirah.

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Egyptian Museum

I know we always talk about saving the best until last but, in case you read no further than this paragraph (though I hope you will), I will just say that if you only do one non-pyramid thing while in Cairo, definitely make it the Egyptian Museum – even if you’re not a ‘museum person’.

The iconic rose-coloured building has stood at Tahrir Square since 1902. Stepping through the giant doors really does feel like being transported back in time. It has that old-school museum feel: a huge, echoey atrium-like hall with imposing columns and arches, and pharaonic statues and mummies at every turn. Indeed, its more than 170,000 artefacts make it the largest archaeological museum in the Middle East and the largest museum in Africa. It is not one of those ‘musty’ museums though; I noticed many windows were open that allowed for a nice breeze to come in and provided good aeration.

You may have attended Ancient Egyptian exhibitions elsewhere around the world (I certainly have), but there’s something undeniably special about viewing these antiquities – the world’s largest collection of pharaonic antiquities, no less – on their very own soil: Egypt, the land of such rich ancient history. One of the highlights is definitely seeing Tutankhamun’s iconic gold mask. It is housed in a separate room that also displays collections of sumptuous jewellery. While this room does not cost more to enter, expect to queue up to get in and deal with surging crowds once in there. Also note that photography is not permitted in that particular section.

While there is a shiny new Grand Egyptian Museum set to open in Giza (at the time of writing this in early 2024, an official opening date is still yet to be announced), I personally believe you really cannot beat the history and character of this grand old dame in downtown Cairo. I was so impressed by it and spent several hours there. Tickets can be purchased at a separate booth outside the entrance (credit cards accepted) and bags are X-rayed (this was quite common practice at sites and hotels across Cairo). There is also a gift shop, but I found it to be quite expensive for what it offered.

• Open daily: 9am-5pm
• Best way to get there: Uber or private car transfer/tour
• Entry fees:
  • Non-Egyptian/Arab adults: EGP 450.00 (~USD 15.00)
  • Non-Egyptian/Arab students: EGP 230.00 (~USD 7.00)
  • Adult Egyptian & Arab citizens: EGP 30.00 (~USD 1.00)
  • Student Egyptian & Arab citizens: EGP 10.00 (~USD 0.30)
  • Children under 6 years: Free

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Downtown Cairo

While you’re in the downtown area to visit the Egyptian Museum, you might also like to explore some of the other nearby sites. Tahrir Square itself is right outside the museum, and while it’s not necessarily that picturesque, it is amazing to stand there for a moment, amidst all the hustle, bustle and chaotic traffic of Cairo, and take in the scene, not to mention the history. I personally remember seeing a lot of it on TV during the 2011 Egypt uprising.

Also nearby is the fabled Nile River, the longest river in Africa. There are dinner cruises available, or you may want to just take a stroll along its banks on the Nile Corniche. Some of the tree-lined streets almost have a Parisian or Spanish feel to them, especially the Zamalek district on Gezira Island, which sits right in the middle of the Nile. This is one of the more exclusive areas of the city, and is home to the Cairo Tower, another major tourist site. I did not go up the tower, but we did drive past it a few times, and it is visible from many parts of the downtown area.

On the same street as the tower (Al Borg Street) is the Zamalek Tree, a.k.a. the Cairo Tower Tree, a 150-year-old banyan tree that I would never have known about if our driver hadn’t taken us there. With its sprawling branches and cascading roots, it transforms the little street into something of an enchanted forest, providing welcome shade and sound insulation from the heaving noise and traffic less than a block away. Apparently many banyan trees were imported from India by Egyptian ruler Khedive Ismail in 1868 and subsequently planted across much of downtown Cairo, especially Zamalek. It was definitely something I wasn’t expecting to find here!

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Cairo Citadel

If you’ve done the Egyptian Museum and downtown Cairo and still have time to spare, I suggest making the Citadel your next priority. This can be done in combination with another site or on its own as a 3-to-4-hour half-day tour (we did this one).

You can also do it yourself by taking a taxi or Uber there, but having a guide explain the history and point out elements you would otherwise never see yourself really makes a difference, especially as most guides in Egypt need to be qualified Egyptologists or have degrees in Egyptian history. I learned so much from our guide, Mario, pictured below. There is a little bit of walking to be done around the site, including uphill, but nothing too uncomfortable

The Citadel’s full name is the Citadel of Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi (Saladin), and it’s one of the main sites in Islamic Cairo (side note: While the city’s population is predominantly Muslim, there is also a Coptic Orthodox district with a number of churches. Indeed, I met just as many Christian locals during my time in the city as I did Muslim.).

There are two main buildings to visit at the Citadel (in addition to some small museums). The first will likely be the Sultan al-Nasir Muhammad ibn Qalawun Mosque, built in AD 1318. It is where the sultans would perform their Friday prayers, and you can see an original wooden pulpit against the wall facing Mecca, from where the prayers would have been recited.

I recommend taking time to walk (removing shoes first) the entire perimeter of the courtyard, under the columns and striped arches that form shady arcades. It reminded me a little of the Mezquita in Córdoba, Spain; absolutely magnificent. One of the pillars actually doubled as an original sundial. Our guide pointed out a little hole from which several etched lines emanated at various angles. These lines would be used to show prayer times, based on how the shadows aligned against them. I found this fascinating!

The second, and arguably most important, site at the Citadel is the Muhammad Ali Mosque. Built in Ottoman style, its interior looks like a smaller-scale version of the Hagia Sophia Mosque in Istanbul, with elaborate gold domes and sweeping circular chandeliers. Indeed there are 365 hanging lamps in the Muhammad Ali Mosque, symbolising the need to pray 365 days a year. I definitely enjoyed spending some time in there, head craned up, admiring the exquisite interior.

The tomb of Muhammad Ali is on your right as you enter. And speaking of entering, you will once again need to either remove your shoes or pay EGP 10 (USD ~0.30) for a pair of plastic booties (like what you wear for surgery!) to put over your shoes. I had taken a scarf with me as I assumed that, as a woman, I would need to put it over my head to go inside, but that was not the case. I still always recommend women having one with them when travelling anywhere in an Islamic country though, as you never know where it might be needed.

Also be sure to explore the outer courtyard, housing the ablutions fountain. You will additionally see an ornate clock tower that, our guide told us, was a gift from France in return for Muhammad Ali gifting France an obelisk from Luxor (this obelisk still stands at Place de la Concorde in Paris). Unfortunately, the clock never worked – definitely a raw deal for Muhammad Ali!

Next to the Mosque as you exit (after admiring the sweeping views of Cairo’s rooftops and, in the far, hazy distance, the pyramids), is the palace where Muhammad Ali lived with his family. Sadly, it got badly damaged in the 1993 Cairo earthquake, but still makes for nice photography.

• Open daily: 8am-4.30pm (though the mosques are closed for prayers at Friday lunchtime)
• Best way to get there: Uber/Private car transfer/Guided tour
• Entry fees: EGP 200 (~USD 6.50). Tickets can just be bought at the entrance.

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Al-Azhar Park

I must be honest in saying that much of Cairo is quite dry, dusty and choked by the street pollution and crazy traffic that comes with having a population of nearly 23 million people – which is why a public park like Al-Azhar Park is such a welcome change. This beautiful, sprawling garden is a lush sanctuary in the heart of Old Cairo, landscaped in the style of traditional Islamic gardens. I visited on a Friday (a weekend), and it was full of Muslim families enjoying picnics. There was also a beautiful Muslim wedding happening. I only saw one other group of people apart from ourselves who were Westerners/non-Muslims, so it definitely felt like an authentic local experience.

I recommend heading to the south-western end (turn left after entering) to get a great view of the Citadel, then following the path back northwards along the western edge of the park to take in the sweeping vista of Cairo’s rooftops. I also heard some mystical Middle Eastern music wafting over from somewhere, which really added to the mood!

I did not eat while at the park, but I walked through a couple of the on-site restaurants: the Lakeside Restaurant at the south-western end, which is indeed right by a small lake and has an oasis feel with its fountains, palm trees and pavilion-like design; the Al Masrawya Café, a more casual snack joint at the highest part of the park, from where you can enjoy the aforementioned rooftop view; and the Hill-top Restaurant, also aptly named, because it sits at an elevation overlooking the park and the Citadel beyond. It is a Fatimid-style building with a Moorish-style forecourt and what looked to be a lovely al-fresco dining area.

Give yourself at least a couple of hours (especially if you’re also stopping to eat) to stroll along the leafy pathways that criss-cross the vast parkland and soak up the atmosphere.

• Open daily: 9am-10pm
• Best way to get there: Uber/Private car transfer
• Entry fees:
  • Sun-Thu: EGP 40 (~USD 1.30) for adults & EGP 30 (~USD 1.00) for children aged 2-8
  • Fri & Sat: EGP 45 (~USD 1.50) for adults & EGP 30 (~USD 1.00) for children aged 2-8

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Al Mokattam Mountain

Al Mokattam Mountain is a bonus little stop you can add on to any of the aforementioned attractions, as it is a relatively short drive from all of them. I didn’t actually know about it, but after one of our tours, our driver asked us if we wanted to ‘go up the mountain’. I didn’t realise there was a mountain in Cairo. And while ‘mountain’ is a bit of an exaggeration, Al Mokattam is certainly an elevated point in the city’s east.

You definitely notice the climb as the car wends its way up some winding leafy streets, past some decadent old buildings, before finally reaching the plateau-like top. We just pulled over on the dusty roadside (for once there was basically zero traffic up there, which was quite a change from down below) and stopped for about 10 minutes to take in the view. It almost feels like standing on the edge of a giant mine site; there is not much greenery in sight, just lots of sand, rubble and Cairo’s cityscape of neutral tones sprawling out before you. It really gives you a sense of how big this megapolis is.

I noticed a few couples and groups of friends also sitting out there on the edge enjoying the vista, so perhaps it is a popular spot to hang out. Our driver, a born-and-bred Cairo local, said he loves it up there and always recommends it to visitors. I’m glad he suggested it to us, as I would never have otherwise been able to admire Cairo from this unique perspective.

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Baron Empain Palace

Baron Empain Palace was another totally new discovery for me – once again thanks to our amazing driver. This, too, was added on after visiting one of the other attractions, though it is a little further north-east in the modern district of Heliopolis (actually not too far from the airport). It was founded in the early 20th century by Belgian businessman Edward Louis Joseph Empain, who came to Egypt to construct a railway line and later became a baron. It was intended as a residence for him and his family.

My first thought when I caught sight of it was that it looked like the sort of building you would see in South India. And sure enough, it turns out it was indeed inspired by Hindu temple architecture, and is actually also known as Le Palais Hindou or ‘The Hindu Palace’. We did not go inside, as our driver just slotted it in as a bonus recommendation because we had a bit of time to spare after our visit to Al Azhar Park, so we only walked around it from the outside. I’m so glad he suggested it though, because I was truly struck by how beautiful it was, with its intricate carvings of dancers, elephants, Buddhas and Hindu deities.

Even if you only stop briefly to admire it from the outside, as we did, it is definitely worth it, as it is certainly one of the city’s most unique structures.

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Unknown Soldier Memorial

This was also only a brief stop for us, as it was on the way between the Al Azhar Park and Baron Empain Palace, but it is an important historic monument nonetheless. Designed as a stylised pyramid, the Unknown Soldier Memorial is located in Cairo’s Nasr City district. Built on the orders of President Anwar Sadat in 1974 in honour of Egyptians and Arabs who lost their lives in the 1973 October War, it now also serves as a tomb to the president himself, who was assassinated in 1981. You might like to spend a little while walking around it and exploring some of Egypt’s more recent history.

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Other options for things to see in Cairo

So there you have it; that’s my list of non-pyramid attractions I visited while in Cairo. It is far from exhaustive though. There are some I didn’t get around to, such as the churches of Coptic Cairo, the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar and a day trip out to the ancient step pyramids of Saqqara (older than the more famous pyramids of Giza).

It is also possible to visit other cities such as Alexandria (by road) and Luxor (by air) as day trips from Cairo, but they are very long and I’m not sure how rushed it would be to try and cram everything these incredible cities have to offer into barely a few hours. I only had a few days in Cairo and they were packed full just doing all of the above list, plus the pyramids. I will definitely have to go back and explore more of this exquisite, unique country!

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Recommended tour operator

To see all of the aforementioned attractions, we used Twitter Egypt Travel (they originally started out on Twitter) after doing some googling and reading outstanding reviews about them on numerous websites. The first tour I booked with them was actually their VIP Meet & Assist at Cairo Airport, which I HIGHLY recommend. I had never used a meet & assist service at any airport before, but it made the whole process at Cairo (which may be a more daunting airport for some, especially as there are visas involved) so smooth.

Isaac will likely be the person waiting for you. He is so professional, friendly and polite and keeps you regularly updated via WhatsApp. As a born-and-bred Cairo local who spoke excellent English, he helped us through immigration and baggage collection, before guiding us to a minivan where one of his drivers was waiting, with plentiful bottles of mineral water to boot. It was based on this excellent service that we decided to use Twitter Egypt Travel for other tours and private car transfers as well. Every one of his drivers and guides was absolutely brilliant.

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I do hope you have found this article to be of use in helping you plan your Cairo itinerary. If you have any other suggestions or recommendations, feel free to leave a comment below. You might also like to download my free, printable one-page Cairo city guide.

Looking for somewhere to stay on your trip to Cairo? Considering reading my comprehensive review of the Hyatt Regency Cairo West.

For more Middle East travel content, feel free to check out my posts from Qatar, Jordan and, a little further afield, Azerbaijan.

Wherever you venture in the world, it’s important to always have travel insurance, especially when it comes to medical/health matters. If you’re a nomad or remote worker, you may wish to consider SafetyWing as a provider for your travel health insurance needs when travelling internationally for extended periods of time as an individual, family or company.

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